Gucci is entering a new chapter under the direction of Georgian designer Demna, who unveiled his first collection for the Italian luxury house during Milan Fashion Week. Known simply by his first name, the 44-year-old creative director introduced his vision with a cinematic project rather than a traditional runway, signaling what Gucci described as the “genesis of a new era.”
Demna, who previously led Balenciaga for nearly a decade, joined Gucci in July with the task of revitalizing the brand following a period of declining sales. For his debut, he chose to present a series of striking looks as part of a film titled The Tiger, directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn.
The collection was inspired by archetypes of Italian family life, humorously titled “La Famiglia.” The characters range from the diva to the influencer, the narcissist, and the mama’s boy. Each persona was dressed in distinctive styles, from daring red-carpet gowns and thigh-grazing faux fur coats to sheer vests, chic minis, and timeless accessories.
Demna explained that these archetypes embody Gucci’s future clientele. “Every customer will find something to relate to,” he said in an interview, emphasizing that his vision is to create a collection that blends classic Gucci elegance with modern identity.
The pieces will be made available at select boutiques worldwide, offering early access to what Kering, Gucci’s parent company, hopes will be a commercial revival. Despite skepticism from some analysts about whether Demna’s bold, streetwear-infused approach will resonate with Gucci’s traditional base, he has insisted that he will not repeat what he has done before.
At Balenciaga, Demna became famous for provocative designs such as the $2,000 “Ikea bag” and the $1,800 “trash pouch.” While controversial, these creations cemented his reputation for sparking conversations in fashion. His ability to capture cultural shifts also earned him loyal celebrity fans and significant influence over global style trends.
Though Gucci faces challenges in the luxury market, particularly with reduced demand from China, Kering chief François-Henri Pinault has expressed confidence in Demna’s creativity, calling it “exactly what Gucci needs.”
Demna’s debut collection, blending wit, glamour, and cultural commentary, suggests that Gucci is ready to reassert itself on the global fashion stage. Whether this gamble translates into a commercial turnaround remains to be seen, but the designer’s fearless entry has certainly placed Gucci back at the center of conversation.
